The trick to selling scrap copper
is to sell it directly to a scrap yard. If you are in the USA, chances
are there is one or more scrap yards somewhere in your town/county/city
that you may or may not know about.
Every scrap yard will be interested in buying
your scrap copper. It is your job as a scrap seller to find the scrap
yard with the best price, and that is closest to your house or place of
business. You can always call a scrap yard and ask about their current
pricing. (You can expect to get prices at or a little below those listed
in the upper right corner of this web page.) To find the nearest scrap
yards, I suggest using google maps, google places, or a similar local
search engine.
Before you haul your payload off to the scrap
yard, you will want to first sort it into its separate categories.
Unless you sort it properly, the scrap yard will demote it all to
the lowest priced category, insuring that you get paid less then it is
worth. Scrap copper that is contaminated with steel, aluminum,
or other less valuable metals will lower its value significantly. If you
have copper pipes with soldered in joints, for example, these are
called copper #2. But if you take your time cutting all of the soldered
joints out, leaving just the copper pipes, you will have the higher
paying copper #2.
These are 5 general types of copper that you
will be getting your hands on when selling scrap metal, and all types of
scrap copper can be broken down into further sub-categories:
- Scrap Copper Solids
- Scrap Copper Non-Solids (Turnings, dust, chips, ect)
- Scrap Copper Wire
- Scrap Copper Breakage (Scrap Motors, Scrap Transformers, Scrap Copper Windings)
- Scrap Copper Alloy
Selling Scrap Copper Solids
Congratulations! You have gotten ahold of the good stuff!
Scrap copper solids are any type of unalloyed,
or pure, copper scrap . Scrap copper solids are usually the most sought
after scrap metal in our industry (Read as “Mass epidemic of Metal Theft rocks
scrap metal industry.”) If you stole your scrap copper, go to Hell.
Otherwise, place it into one of these three categories:
- Scrap Copper #1 (Copper number one): Defined as clean copper clippings, punchings, busbars, commutator segments, tubing and wire not less than 1/16 of an inch thick. (Includes any type of solid copper, including mill grade copper, clean copper welding tips, etc)
- Scrap Copper #2 (Copper number two): Defined as unalloyed copper solids, at least 96% copper, and free of excessively leaded, tinned, soldered copper scrap; brasses and bronzes; excessive oil content, iron and non-metallics; copper tubing with other than copper connections or with sediment; copper wire from burning, containing insulation; hair wire; or burnt wire which is brittle.
- Scrap Copper #3 (Light Copper): Light copper solids are any type of copper sheeting that is less then 1/16 of an inch thick. This scrap copper is worth significantly less then copper 1 or copper 2.
Selling Scrap Copper Non-Solids
This basically covers all things like dust, chips, turning, ect. I don’t feel like I need to really get into this too much, mainly because most yards have their own prices and procedures for selling those.
Scrap Copper dust, chips, and turnings, ect are
worth only as much as your scrap yard is willing to pay for them,
and unfortunately, that is usually not that much in my experience.
(Around 25% of spot price.)
If you end up having more than about 10 pounds
of these, I would suggest trying to melt them down into your own copper
nugget to make more money. I have used propane to melt turnings down in
the past. Find a method that works for you, and stick with it… If you
don’t think it is worth doing: Dont do it! (I decided it wasn’t worth
the propane!)
Selling Scrap Copper Wire
Every yard is different when it comes to insulated scrap copper wire. You may find that it is worth stripping your wire if you cant sell it for a good price, or maybe you will find that you never should strip wire…
Scrap Copper wire can be sorted into 5 different grades:
- 85% Wire: Thin case with a diameter comparible to a pencil’s. If you have this type of wire, just strip it yourself and get full copper price!
- 70% Wire: Romex/machine wire without any attachments. Found inside of any type of electronics or appliances
- 50% Wire: Extension cords and appliance cords
- 35% Wire: Thinly gauged wire with a considerable degree of attachments. “Communications wire” For example, VGA cables, telephone wires, ect.
- 10% Wire: Christmas lights
Unfortunately,
most yards do not segregate scrap wire into so many types. This will
usually result in just 2 types of categories for you scrap copper wire:
- High Grade Coppe Wire: Any copper wire with a single layer of insulation.
- Low Grade Copper Wire: Any copper wire with a double layer of insulation.
Scrap “copper breakage” is another way of saying anything with copper winding.
If you have scrap electric motors, scrap
starters, scrap alternators, scrap transformers, scrap inductors, scrap
ballasts, or scrap power supplies you could be getting payed over 3.5x
what you are getting for shred steel.
As a general rule, if I have any type of scrap
copper breakage that weighs more then 20 pounds, I will break it apart
into scrap copper and scrap steel. Depending on what your yard buys, you
may not even have a choice, and to get a decent price, you must
disassemble!
To pull out scrap copper winding, I cut through
the winding that stick out of one end with a sawzall. Then I use a 5
point hammer and punch to hit the copper windings out of their slots. If
They slide out easily, I will cut through one end of the copper
winding, and then pry the winding out on the other side using a pry-bar/
crowbar. This is also one of the techniques you will need to perfect
depending on your situation.
It is different for Scrap Transformers.
Selling Scrap Copper Alloy
The world of metallurgy revolves around the
broad range of alloys that can be created from any type of metal, but
you are most likely familiar to the more common scrap copper alloys:
Brass and Bronze. These are effectively the same thing, as the
definitions have become blended in modern culture. This has lead many
scrap yards to just call this price “Copper alloy” as opposed to scrap
brass or scrap bronze. (Technically brass is an alloy of copper and
zinc, and bronze is an alloy of copper and tin, or other elements.)
In the beginning of 2011, scrap copper alloy is worth about $1.75 per pound, and is increasing with the price of bullish copper.
But other then scrap bronze and scrap brass,
scrap alloys also come in the shape of Cupronickel, Inconel, and Monel.
These specialty alloys are worth much more, and you need to find a yard
that buys them for their higher scrap values.
One unusually Scrap copper alloy source is in Scrap Silver Plate, and Scrap Immitation Silver. These are actually cupronickel, copper, or German silver.
This is a very nice informative blog in which you discuss the tricks to sell the scrap metals. This is true that selling the scrap metals directly to the scrap yards is a nice idea instead of selling it through mediator.
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